Windjana Gorge Tunnel Creek

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Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek, Western Australia

July 18th 2008 13:43

Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek, Western Australia

(through one traveller’s eyes)

It was from Fitzroy River Lodge that we ventured on tours to the Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek. These two tourist spots (along with Geikie Gorge) are part of an ancient barrier reef and are of international geological significance.

Windjana Gorge is about 3.5 km long. It is a narrow canyon which has been formed by the flowing of the Lennard River through the Napier Range in the wet season. During the dry season the river forms pools which support local flora and fauna. In some places the colourful walls of Windjana Gorge rise to about 100 metres.

Windjana Gorge, Windjana Gorge National Park, WA.

Scenic Windjana Gorge.

Freshwater Crocodiles.

Freshwater Crocodiles laze in the pools at Windjana Gorge. They seem to be quite unperturbed by tourists and we could get quite close (but not too close) without disturbing them. We were informed about 70 Freshwater Crocodiles live in this pool.

Fossilized nautiloid, Windjana Gorge.

A few kilometres from Windjana Gorge stands the ruins of Lillimoolora Station Homestead. Lillimooloora Station was one of the first cattle stations to be settled in this area. In 1879 Alexander Forrest explored this region and his positive reports encouraged settlers to bring sheep and cattle into this area. In 1884 the King Sound Pastoral Company built the Lillimoolora homestead using local limestone. This homestead later became a police outpost, and has been made famous by the story of Jandamarra. By the ruins of this house is a monument in memory of a policeman, Bill Richardson, who was shot in this building by Jandamarra.

The remains of Lillimooloora Station Homestead, Windjana Gorge National Park

The remains of Lillimooloora Station Homestead, and the monument to Bill Richardson.

Jandamarra was a member of the Bunuba people who lived in this region before white settlement. He lived and worked on Lennard River Station. He was an athletic youth, a good pastoral worker and an excellent horseman. Later, while living at Lillimooloora Station, he befriended a white man called Bill Richardson. When Lillimooloora Station was divided up, Richardson left and became a policeman. He took Jandamarra to work with him. They made a formidable team and on one patrol took seventeen Bunuba people prisoner. Richardson kept the prisoners chained at Lillimooloora for seven days. During this time Jandamarra was under intense pressure to release his countrymen and one night he shot Richardson dead and released the prisoners. For the next three years he led the resistance of the Bunuba people but finally was himself shot at Tunnel Creek. His story is told in “Jandamarra and the Bunuba Resistance” written by Howard Pedersen and Banjo Woorunnurra – published by Magabala Books. I read this book after my visit to Windjana Gorge, Tunnel Creek and Geikie Gorge. As much of Jandamarra’s story unfolds around these places, it gave my understanding of these spectacular, unique places another dimension.

After visiting Windjana Gorge and the ruins of Lillimooloora Homestead we travelled about 36 kilometres to Tunnel Creek. For this 1.5 kilometre walk we had been warned to bring shoes suitable for walking through the permanent pools of water and our guide provided each of us with a torch. Our excitement was rewarded as we moved along this intriguing tunnel. In parts it is about 12 metres high and 15 metres wide. At times we had to wade through water to progress through the tunnel and in one spot our guide asked us all to stand still and turn the torches off. It was pitch black, and very quiet. In one place the roof of the cave has collapsed and a colony of bats could be observed hanging from the trees. We spotted stalagmites and stalactites as we moved through the tunnel and interesting shapes and shadows are formed with the wearing of the walls into crevices and holes. Jandamarra used Tunnel Creek as a hideout, and what an excellent hideout it would have been.

Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek, Western Australia

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