Ian
priscilla 1Oodnadatta Track, Borefield Road and The Googs Track, South Australia
November 3rd 2006 00:54
Following the trek across the southern portion of the Great Victorian Desert, Central Australia, on the Anne Beadell Highway from Laverton to Coober Pedy, the Albany Four Wheel Drive Club contingent headed north to Oodnadatta.
The drive to Oodnadatta is in a remote region of the South Australian Desert, and there is no place to buy supplies along the way, so recuperating at Coober Pedy and stocking up on supplies after the journey along the Anne Beadell Highway was essential. Coober Pedy is a regional centre in the harsh, dry interior, and it is a good idea to plan to stay here for at least a couple of days to experience the lifestyle and find out about this unique town and its surroundings.
About 100 kilometres NE of Coober Pedy is the sign to The Painted Desert. The Painted Desert, once an inland sea, is made up of flat topped elevations known as mesas. These mesas are made up of brilliant, multi-coloured sedimentary layers, set down when the area was under the ocean. They have been eroded and shaped over time. It is impossible to describe their beauty and this area is a photographer’s paradise. The colours change with the changing light, so, if you are a photographer, it is possible to spend a whole day here admiring the changing colours and scenery.
The variety of wildlife which can be spotted in the desert regions of Australia is amazing.
Historic Oodnadatta is a remote township situated close to the western edge of the Simpson Desert. It is 1011 kilometres north of Adelaide and in its hey day was a bustling, important stop over for the Old Ghan Railway Line, which terminated at Oodnadatta. Camel trains used to bring wool from the stations into the train at Oodnadatta and take supplies back on the return trip. Camel trains also worked regular runs for travellers, mail and freight to Alice Springs. It was also a crossroads town with goldminers, drovers, Aboriginal people and camel drivers regularly passing through. Today it is a welcome place for travellers to stop and restock.
The roadhouse at Oodnadatta is painted a brilliant pink , as you can see, and is the ‘jack of all trades’ stop, offering everything from food, to travel information, to fuel, to a caravan park, to vehicle repairs……..
John McDouall Stuart explored this region in 1859 and the route mapped on his journeys was used as part of the Old Ghan Railway Line and the Overland Telegraph Line route. Construction of the Overland Telegraph Line, from Augusta to Darwin, took two years to complete, beginning in September 1870. Taking into account the harsh, isolated conditions in Central Australia, it has been hailed as one of the greatest engineering feats in the history of Australia. The Overland Telegraph line was a single 3200 kilometre strand of galvanised wire, and when completed linked Australia with the rest of the world. England extended its submarine cable from Java to link with the Overland Line at Darwin.
The original Ghan Railway Line, called “The Afghan Express” after the Afghan camel trains, was started in Port Augusta in 1878 and reached Oodnadatta in 1891. The next stage of the line, to Alice Springs, was not completed until 1929. The old Ghan Railway Line was prone to flooding because it was built around the edge of Lake Eyre. Delays were common, so when the line needed a lot of upgrading it was decided to replace it and run the new line 150 kilometres to the west, from Port Augusta, north to Tarcoola and on to Alice Springs. This meant that Oodnadatta no longer had the train passing through it and so its importance and population declined.
The 617 kilometre Oodnadatta Track follows the old Ghan Railway Line and the Overland Telegraph Line. William Creek, Coward Springs, Curdimurka Siding and Lake Eyre South are all places of interest along the Oodnadatta Track from Oodnadatta to Lake Eyre South.
Travelling along the old Ghan Railway Line is a fascinating experience. Looking at the length and strength of the old bridges is awe inspiring.
The bridges on the old Ghan Railway Line are old style construction: i.e. they are riveted, not welded. This method of construction is similar to the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
South of Oodnadatta, on the Oodnadatta Track, is William Creek. The old Ghan Railway Line ran through William Creek, which was a railway watering and service point. Today, despite being one of South Australia’s smallest towns, it is the gateway to Lake Eyre North, which is visited by many tourists every year.
Seventy six kilometres south of William Creek, on the Oodnadatta Track, is Coward Springs. Coward Springs used to be a siding on the old Ghan Railway Line. Today it is a welcome, outback caravan park and camping site, but no fuel or provisions can be obtained here. Coward Springs is famous for its artesian bore which was sunk to provide water for the railways. Today warm water, straight from the Great Artesian Basin flows into a man made spa which overflows into permanent, artificial wetlands.
Today warm water, straight from the Great Artesian Basin, flows into this spa, which has been constructed with old railway sleepers. The water in the spa is about 29 degrees and bathing in it is a luxurious experience.
Water from an artesian bore overflows from the spa into these permanent, artificial wetlands, which have become a sanctuary for over 100 species of birds. These artificial wetlands are much reduced in size since the bore was capped, and the flow reduced, to conserve artesian water. The smaller wetland area is maintained because it is a significant oasis in the outback for waterbirds.
Further south, on the Oodnadatta Track, is Curdimurka Siding. This was the closest siding to Lake Eyre and is preserved by the Ghan Railway Preservation Society. Fettlers’ cottages, a water tank and sheds have been retained. An artesian bore is to be found next to the siding. Water from the artesian bore was stored in water softener tanks. These tanks were built to remove the harmful minerals from the water, which caused heavy scaling on the boilers of the steam trains.
The Oodnadatta Track travels along Lake Eyre South. Lake Eyre South is approximately 64 kilometres long and 24 kilometres wide, covering approximately 1260 square kilometres. It is joined to Lake Eyre North by a 15 kilometre water course, known as Goyder’s Channel. Lake Eyre is located in the desert regions of Central Australia. The Lake Eyre Basin covers 1.2 million square kilometres and despite having a vast catchment area, fills, on average, only twice in a century. Lake Eyre is below sea level, being the lowest point in Australia, and is the largest salt pan in the world.
Thirty kilometres west of Marree, the 115 kilometre long Borefield Road branches off the Oodnadatta Track heading for Roxby Downs. Roxby Downs is 265 kilometres from Port Augusta and is a copper, uranium, gold and silver mining town. It was purpose built to accommodate workers and their families for the Olympic Dam mining project. From Roxby Downs the Albany Four Wheel Drive Club contingent travelled down to Woomera, then west to Tarcoola.
Tarcoola is a ghost town situated 416 kilometres N/NE of Port Augusta. It was an important gold mining town but was shut down about ten years ago. Today it is best known as the junction in the railways that run west to Perth, north to Darwin and SE to south and east Australia.
The Googs Track is less than 200 kilometres long and traverses the Yumbarra Conservation Reserve and Yellabinna Regional Reserve. It is a remote area and travellers have to take their own supplies of food, water and fuel. The track passes through regions of mallee, spinifex grass, salt lakes and arid scrub. The sand dunes are mainly red and some of the sand ridges are up to 25 metres high. There are many suitable camp sites to be found along the track and camping permits are required.
The Googs Track was created by “Goog” (nickname) Denton and his son Martin. They owned the station on the southern side of the reserve and built the track so that they could access the train at Malbooma Siding on the Trans Australia Line. There is a big salt lake along the track, called Googs Lake, and near the Lake there are two memorials – one for Goog and one for Martin.
Travelling the Australian outback on these historic tracks is an indescribable experience.
The vastness and arid nature of the country is awe inspiring. Camping without all the mod cons, to which we have become accustomed, helps to put the things we value into some sort of perspective. The amazing clear, starry skies at night are a thrill to behold. Members of the Albany Four Wheel Drive Club are planning already their next adventurous adventure.
The drive to Oodnadatta is in a remote region of the South Australian Desert, and there is no place to buy supplies along the way, so recuperating at Coober Pedy and stocking up on supplies after the journey along the Anne Beadell Highway was essential. Coober Pedy is a regional centre in the harsh, dry interior, and it is a good idea to plan to stay here for at least a couple of days to experience the lifestyle and find out about this unique town and its surroundings.
About 100 kilometres NE of Coober Pedy is the sign to The Painted Desert. The Painted Desert, once an inland sea, is made up of flat topped elevations known as mesas. These mesas are made up of brilliant, multi-coloured sedimentary layers, set down when the area was under the ocean. They have been eroded and shaped over time. It is impossible to describe their beauty and this area is a photographer’s paradise. The colours change with the changing light, so, if you are a photographer, it is possible to spend a whole day here admiring the changing colours and scenery.
Scenes of the Painted Desert, near Arckaringa, NE of Coober Pedy in the South Australian Desert Region.
Kangaroos in the Painted Desert, near Arckaringa, South Australian Desert Region.
Historic Oodnadatta is a remote township situated close to the western edge of the Simpson Desert. It is 1011 kilometres north of Adelaide and in its hey day was a bustling, important stop over for the Old Ghan Railway Line, which terminated at Oodnadatta. Camel trains used to bring wool from the stations into the train at Oodnadatta and take supplies back on the return trip. Camel trains also worked regular runs for travellers, mail and freight to Alice Springs. It was also a crossroads town with goldminers, drovers, Aboriginal people and camel drivers regularly passing through. Today it is a welcome place for travellers to stop and restock.
The old Railway Station, now Museum, Oodnadatta, 200 kilometres NE Coober Pedy.
Old Ghan Railway Line goods shed, Oodnadatta, Central Australia.
John McDouall Stuart explored this region in 1859 and the route mapped on his journeys was used as part of the Old Ghan Railway Line and the Overland Telegraph Line route. Construction of the Overland Telegraph Line, from Augusta to Darwin, took two years to complete, beginning in September 1870. Taking into account the harsh, isolated conditions in Central Australia, it has been hailed as one of the greatest engineering feats in the history of Australia. The Overland Telegraph line was a single 3200 kilometre strand of galvanised wire, and when completed linked Australia with the rest of the world. England extended its submarine cable from Java to link with the Overland Line at Darwin.
The original Ghan Railway Line, called “The Afghan Express” after the Afghan camel trains, was started in Port Augusta in 1878 and reached Oodnadatta in 1891. The next stage of the line, to Alice Springs, was not completed until 1929. The old Ghan Railway Line was prone to flooding because it was built around the edge of Lake Eyre. Delays were common, so when the line needed a lot of upgrading it was decided to replace it and run the new line 150 kilometres to the west, from Port Augusta, north to Tarcoola and on to Alice Springs. This meant that Oodnadatta no longer had the train passing through it and so its importance and population declined.
The 617 kilometre Oodnadatta Track follows the old Ghan Railway Line and the Overland Telegraph Line. William Creek, Coward Springs, Curdimurka Siding and Lake Eyre South are all places of interest along the Oodnadatta Track from Oodnadatta to Lake Eyre South.
Steel bridges, old Ghan Railway Line, south of Oodnadatta.
South of Oodnadatta, on the Oodnadatta Track, is William Creek. The old Ghan Railway Line ran through William Creek, which was a railway watering and service point. Today, despite being one of South Australia’s smallest towns, it is the gateway to Lake Eyre North, which is visited by many tourists every year.
South Australia Outback, Oodnadatta Track, near William Creek.
Seventy six kilometres south of William Creek, on the Oodnadatta Track, is Coward Springs. Coward Springs used to be a siding on the old Ghan Railway Line. Today it is a welcome, outback caravan park and camping site, but no fuel or provisions can be obtained here. Coward Springs is famous for its artesian bore which was sunk to provide water for the railways. Today warm water, straight from the Great Artesian Basin flows into a man made spa which overflows into permanent, artificial wetlands.
Restored Engine Drivers’ Cottage and Coward Springs camping site, Oodnadatta Track.
Further south, on the Oodnadatta Track, is Curdimurka Siding. This was the closest siding to Lake Eyre and is preserved by the Ghan Railway Preservation Society. Fettlers’ cottages, a water tank and sheds have been retained. An artesian bore is to be found next to the siding. Water from the artesian bore was stored in water softener tanks. These tanks were built to remove the harmful minerals from the water, which caused heavy scaling on the boilers of the steam trains.
Water processing plant and storage tank, Curdimurka Siding, old Ghan Railway Line, Oodnadatta Track, South Australia.
Front and back of restored fettlers’ cottages, Curdimurka, old Ghan Railway Line.
The Oodnadatta Track travels along Lake Eyre South. Lake Eyre South is approximately 64 kilometres long and 24 kilometres wide, covering approximately 1260 square kilometres. It is joined to Lake Eyre North by a 15 kilometre water course, known as Goyder’s Channel. Lake Eyre is located in the desert regions of Central Australia. The Lake Eyre Basin covers 1.2 million square kilometres and despite having a vast catchment area, fills, on average, only twice in a century. Lake Eyre is below sea level, being the lowest point in Australia, and is the largest salt pan in the world.
Lake Eyre South, Oodnadatta Track, South Australia.
Thirty kilometres west of Marree, the 115 kilometre long Borefield Road branches off the Oodnadatta Track heading for Roxby Downs. Roxby Downs is 265 kilometres from Port Augusta and is a copper, uranium, gold and silver mining town. It was purpose built to accommodate workers and their families for the Olympic Dam mining project. From Roxby Downs the Albany Four Wheel Drive Club contingent travelled down to Woomera, then west to Tarcoola.
Tarcoola is a ghost town situated 416 kilometres N/NE of Port Augusta. It was an important gold mining town but was shut down about ten years ago. Today it is best known as the junction in the railways that run west to Perth, north to Darwin and SE to south and east Australia.
Tarcoola, where the railway tracks divide: west to Perth, Western Australia, and north to Darwin, Northern Territory.
Tarcoola Station, South Australia.
Machinery and vehicles at Tarcoola – relics of the prosperous past.
The Googs Track is less than 200 kilometres long and traverses the Yumbarra Conservation Reserve and Yellabinna Regional Reserve. It is a remote area and travellers have to take their own supplies of food, water and fuel. The track passes through regions of mallee, spinifex grass, salt lakes and arid scrub. The sand dunes are mainly red and some of the sand ridges are up to 25 metres high. There are many suitable camp sites to be found along the track and camping permits are required.
The Googs Track, South Australia, between Malbooma Station, (east of Tarcoola) on the Trans Line, and Lone Oak Station on the Southern edge of the Yumbarra Reserve. Lone Oak Station is about a 45 minute drive from Ceduna.
Mount Finke is the highest landform along The Googs Track.
Travelling the Australian outback on these historic tracks is an indescribable experience.
The vastness and arid nature of the country is awe inspiring. Camping without all the mod cons, to which we have become accustomed, helps to put the things we value into some sort of perspective. The amazing clear, starry skies at night are a thrill to behold. Members of the Albany Four Wheel Drive Club are planning already their next adventurous adventure.
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